This information comes from an excellent source for building the G4S - Dennis Richey.
Shocks: discard the o ring that goes between the shock cap and shock housing. Superglue the shock bladders to the shock eyelet. Use 2 hole piston in the front and 4 hole option piston in the rear shock with 60 wt oil. Associated or kit. Start with Aqua front spring and Purple rear spring. Use the inner shock ball hole on the lower front arm instead of the outside Use 1 hole up on the upper shock location front and rear at the tower.
Diff: Start with 30,000 and apply a small amt of silicone to the gasket when you assemble the dif f halves.
Lower front arms: shorten the front lower arms where the pivot ball threads in by 3 mm so the front end width can be set to 196 without the hubs hitting the arms at full right or left lock.
Note that the rear engine mount screws and the engine mount to chassis screws share a common hole. Be sure that the rear screws are not to long as the mount chassis screws will not seat properly to the chassis.
Set droop at 0 and 4 to start.
There is a small silver spacer that goes over the front one way drives before you install them in the one way. Look for them they are about 2 mm wide and fit tight on the one way outdrives. Once the front end is together and the width is set look to see if the axle is centered in the outdrive. If its not centered and it is way inboard remove the silver spacers. I can’t remember if we used them or not.
I would ream all the arm holes with a 3mm reamer as some of them tend to be a little tight. Be sure to wash the hinge pins with motor spray or something as they are coated and will stick if you just put them in without cleaning them. You may find you need to shorten the front lower arms at the hing pin through holes as they tend to fit tight between the bulkheads. A small swipe or 2 with a file will do.
Use Locktight blue on any screw going into alumunium.
The rear upper links tend to be tight on the outer ball you can squeeze the ball cup after you put it on with pliers and it will free up. Better yet it might be better to put the ball in a drill and spin it while polishing it with a piece of green scotch bright until it feels free when it is installed. Use the uppermost hole on the outer hub and the lower hole at the bulkhead.
Take the front CVD set screws out of the cvd’s and assemble the cvd’s without them. The bearing will retain the pin. We have had some of these work loose and bind the steering. Since we don’t need it why use it. Use a little white lightning lube on the cvd joints, It is a bicycle chain lube that is dry and won’t attract dirt.
Set rear camber at 3
Set rear toe at 2
Set front toe at –1
Set ride height at 4.5
Tire dia start at 59 qualifying 61 main.
Shore 37 front
Shore 40 rear
Front camber 1 to 1.5
Bars flat front and rear.
Even though the car comes with good bearings I highly recommend these ceramic bearings. They are cheap
|
1. Use the supplied collet that comes in the kit. It is a special length so if your engine came with a collet it is advised you replace it with the supplied one in the kit.
2. Install the large washer onto the crankshaft and install the collet.
3. Insure that you pull out on the crankshaft and insure the collet is pushed all the way down to the bearing.
4. Install the flywheel (note: the flywheel is unique and other G4 flywheels cannot be used) you will notice it is a little larger and deeper than the original one.
5. Install the flywheel nut. I highly recommend you use a flywheel retaining tool to hold the flywheel when you tighten the nut but you must be careful not to apply so much torque that you distort the flywheel pins. If you do you will know it when you install the UFO plate. As it wont slide down the pins and if this occurs the flywheel is damaged beyond repair. If you are worried you can use a rag wrapped around the flywheel and hold it with a large pair of pliers while tightening the nut. The rag will protect the flywheel. Never ever use a piston locking tool or something wedged in the exhaust port to lock the motor
Now comes the big question. When I install the flyweights into the flywheel do I use 1 weight 2 weights or no weights?????????
Recommendations based on spring and track bite 1 being lowest and 4 being highest:
Track Bite level 1 is low and 4 is very high.
1. Early engagement, bite level 1 track foam or rubber tires = no additional weights in flyweights with red spring in kit. Hint: rear tires =37 shore.
2. Mid engagement, bite level 2 and foam tires = 1 additional weights in each flyweight with orange option spring. Hint: rear tires =40 shore.
Option 2 will be used 80% of the time on foam tires on a Sugar Water sprayed track.
3. Mid to High engagement, bite level 3 and foam tires = 0 additional weights in each flyweight with orange option spring. Hint: rear tires =40/42 shore.
Option 3 will be used 80% of the time on foam tires on a VHT sprayed track
4. High engagement, bite level 4 and foam tires = 0 additional weights in each flyweight with yellow option spring. Hint: rear tires =42/45 shore
Therefore it is recommended you set up with Option 2 if you have the Orange spring. If not use option 1 and order the Orange spring.
6. Install the flyweights as recommended in the above table and install the UFO clutch plate. At this point the plate should slide free.
7. Install the clutch shoe silver spring retainer, spring and nut. Install the nut with the step facing away from the spring. Tighten the nut down until you have 2 threads showing at the end of the flywheel nut. This is where you will start for spring adjustment.
8. Install the two bearings into the clutch bell and install it onto the engine.
9. While holding the engine with the crankshaft facing up you will notice that the clutchbell drags on the clutch shoe when you turn it. You need to install enough spacers under the inner clutch bell bearing to raise the clutch bell so it sits .020” to .025” thousandths off the shoe. When it is right, the bell will spin freely and not drag on the shoe. Usually this requires 2 to 3 of the mid size shims.
10. Apply grease to the front thrust bearing and install it with no shims between the thrust bearing and the thrust bearing collar. Snug it up lightly. If the clutch bell won’t spin freely go to step 11 if it does go to step 12.
11. If the clutch bell won’t turn freely at this point remove the thrust bearing and the thrust bearing collar and install one of the smallest shims over the thrust bearing retaining collar screw (between the collar and the end of the crank). Install it again. Repeat this process until the clutch bell spins free. When it does add one more shim.
12. If the clutch bell turns freely at this point remove the thrust bearing and the thrust bearing collar. Remove the thrust bearing from the collar and install one of the medium shims over the thrust bearing retaining collar, then replace the thrust bearing onto the collar and install it again. Repeat this process until the clutch bell does not spin free. When it does remove 2 of the medium shims and reinstall it.
13. It should now spin free with very little end play.
14. Install your appropriate pinion gears and you are ready to tune the engagement spring.
15. Adjust the clutch spring so that the car accelerates off the corner as hard as possible without spinning the tires and making the rear end come around. Tightening the spring will make it accelerate harder and vice versa. Adjust it ¼ turn at a time. If you find you need to tighten it or loosen it more than 1 turn in either direction step down or up to one of the other recommended clutch setups.
It’s complicated but not as bad as it sounds. I am sure that after you have used it you will find as I did that it is without a doubt the finest Centax clutch ever made. Give it a try we think you will like it
Dennis Richey |
